Montgomery/Dannelly Field: wind, rain and freeze-thaw
NOAA's engineering weather data lists a station named Montgomery/Dannelly Field. For it, NOAA gives a 50-year basic wind speed of 90 mph (3-second gust at 33 feet), a 100-year rainfall rate of 4.2 inches per hour, and about 27 freeze-thaw cycles in an average year.
Repair, a second layer, or a full tear-off
Not every leak means a new roof, and not every worn roof can take a patch. Before collecting prices, it helps to know which of the three paths a roofer is proposing, and why:
- A repair replaces damaged shingles, a cracked pipe boot or a stretch of loose flashing and leaves the rest alone. Ask how the new material will be matched to the old, and what the roofer saw elsewhere on the roof while up there.
- A second layer goes over the existing shingles. Ask how many layers are already on the house, whether the local building rules allow another, and how the roofer would check the decking they can no longer see.
- A tear-off strips the roof to the decking and starts again. Ask how much of the decking they expect to replace, and how they will tell you before replacing more.
If two roofers recommend different paths for the same roof, ask each to explain what they saw that led them there.
What a roofer can check from above and below
A good inspection covers the roof surface and the attic beneath it. Ask the roofer to walk you through, with photos, what they looked at:
- shingles that are lifted, creased, cracked or missing, and bare patches where granules have worn away;
- flashing at chimneys, walls, skylights and dormers, and the sealant along its edges;
- rubber boots around plumbing vents, which can split as they age;
- valleys, where two roof planes meet and water gathers;
- the ridge and hips, and whatever covers them;
- from inside the attic, stains on the decking or rafters, daylight around nails or penetrations, and damp or matted insulation;
- gutters and downspouts, and where the water goes once it leaves them.
Ask for the photos in the written estimate, so you can see the problem the price is meant to fix.
Edges and ridges in high wind
Wind can get under a roof at its edges, corners and ridge. Shingles hold down by their nails and by an adhesive strip that bonds each course to the one below. Ask each roofer:
- What wind rating does the shingle carry, and which installation method does that rating depend on?
- How many nails go into each shingle, and where on the shingle will they be placed?
- Will a starter strip run along the eaves and the rakes, and what will it be?
- What drip edge will be used, and how will it be fastened?
- How will the ridge cap be attached?
Valleys, flashing and gutters in heavy rain
Heavy rain tests every place water has to turn a corner. Ask:
- What underlayment will cover the deck, and will a self-adhering membrane go in the valleys and around penetrations?
- Will the valleys be open with metal, or closed with shingles, and why?
- Will the step and counterflashing at walls and chimneys be replaced or reused?
- Are the gutters and downspouts large enough for the roof area that drains into them, and should any be added or moved?
- Where will downspouts discharge, and does the ground carry the water away from the house?
Attic air
Shingles sit on top of the attic, and the air in that space affects them. A roof with balanced ventilation draws outside air in low, at the soffits, and lets it out high, at a ridge or roof vents. Ask the roofer how much intake and exhaust the attic has now, whether the plan changes it, and whether any soffit vents are blocked by insulation. If bath or kitchen fans vent into the attic rather than outdoors, ask whether that should be corrected while the roof is open.
Materials worth pricing
Asphalt architectural shingles, metal panels and impact-resistant shingles all have a place, and the choice changes both the price and the installation. Ask each roofer to quote the same material, then ask what a second option would add or remove. For an impact-resistant shingle, ask your insurer whether it offers any premium credit and what paperwork it would want. For metal, ask how the panels are fastened and how expansion is handled at the fasteners.
After a storm has passed
Storm damage can bring door-to-door crews. Take your time with anyone who asks for a large payment before work starts, presses you to sign that same day, or asks you to sign a paper that turns your insurance claim over to them. Photograph the damage from the ground, call your insurer, and get your own written estimate before agreeing to anything. If water is coming in, ask about a temporary cover and what it will cost before work begins.
Paperwork before signing
When you are close to choosing, ask the roofer:
- What state license or registration, if any, covers this work, and what is the number?
- Which permit does the job need, who pulls it, and will an inspector come out?
- Can you provide proof of liability coverage and workers' compensation before the crew arrives?
- What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, who registers it, and what does your own workmanship warranty cover, and for how long?
- What is the payment schedule, and what has to be finished before each payment is due?
Comparing roofers
Ask every roofer for the same written scope so their prices line up: repair, overlay or tear-off; the number of layers removed; decking replacement priced per sheet; underlayment and where any membrane goes; flashing replaced or reused; drip edge and starter; ventilation changes; the shingle or panel line; gutter work; permit; cleanup and magnetic sweeping for nails. A low price with lines missing may describe a different job rather than a better deal.